How to Make Medieval Hats and Caps
The Garments:
Medieval hats tend to be silly, and I love that. When I make or wear a medieval hat, I ask my kids if it looks like the stupidest possible hat to ever exist. They always answer "Yes," and I always respond, "Perfect, that's exactly what I was going for."
Consider some of these absolutely great examples of medieval caps and hats for your next project. Below, I provide short tutorials on how how to make a few kinds of wool hats: the pill box hat, the bag hat, the "acorn" style hat, and a peaked hat.
However, there are many other kinds of hats that were worn in the period that you should keep in mind. I also have tutorials on this site for coifs, bycocket hats, transitional chaperons, and hoods.
In addition to those hats, also consider:
Medieval hats tend to be silly, and I love that. When I make or wear a medieval hat, I ask my kids if it looks like the stupidest possible hat to ever exist. They always answer "Yes," and I always respond, "Perfect, that's exactly what I was going for."
Consider some of these absolutely great examples of medieval caps and hats for your next project. Below, I provide short tutorials on how how to make a few kinds of wool hats: the pill box hat, the bag hat, the "acorn" style hat, and a peaked hat.
However, there are many other kinds of hats that were worn in the period that you should keep in mind. I also have tutorials on this site for coifs, bycocket hats, transitional chaperons, and hoods.
In addition to those hats, also consider:
A farmer in the Morgan Picture Bible wearing a straw hat.
Straw hats:
These are often worn by farmers or travelers and are used to block the sun primarily. Some modern day wide brimmed straw like gardeners hats might have the appropriate medieval aesthetic and could be used if any bands or modern markings are removed.
These are often worn by farmers or travelers and are used to block the sun primarily. Some modern day wide brimmed straw like gardeners hats might have the appropriate medieval aesthetic and could be used if any bands or modern markings are removed.
A farmer is the Lutrell Psalter wearing what appears to be a boat style felt hat.
Knit caps:
Knitted caps can easily be made today and would be either close fitting skull caps or could be extended up from the skull to allow rolling the ends up or the cap can be worn loose on the top of the head. You can also knit an oversize hat out of wool and then felt it through placing it in a hot washing cycle to felt the wool.
Felt hats:
These come in a wide variety of styles but one quintessential style is the bycocket hat such as the Errol Flynn Robin Hood cap which I cover on another page here.
That basic construction style can be translated to other shapes by using different hat block forms and styling it in different ways.
A common type was a simple, boat shaped hat with a rolled brim. This was often seen worn over a hood to provide extra warmth and water protection.
Finally, tall pointed caps were also common throughout this period. The point was usually not too extreme of an angle but rather a rounded shape at the end of the cap.
Cloth hats:
The types of caps I will cover here are cloth caps. These are probably best made from a thicker fulled wool, but may be made from thinner fabric if they are lined and have the proper structure. Ideally, a hat would have a thick wool outer layer to protect from the rain and linen/thin wool lining to provide breathability, but they may be unlined or the outer layer may be made of linen depending on the structure of the hat.
I highly enjoy making small projects like caps and hats from the fabric I have from making other garments. So if you have some extra fabric, try one of these out.
Knitted caps can easily be made today and would be either close fitting skull caps or could be extended up from the skull to allow rolling the ends up or the cap can be worn loose on the top of the head. You can also knit an oversize hat out of wool and then felt it through placing it in a hot washing cycle to felt the wool.
Felt hats:
These come in a wide variety of styles but one quintessential style is the bycocket hat such as the Errol Flynn Robin Hood cap which I cover on another page here.
That basic construction style can be translated to other shapes by using different hat block forms and styling it in different ways.
A common type was a simple, boat shaped hat with a rolled brim. This was often seen worn over a hood to provide extra warmth and water protection.
Finally, tall pointed caps were also common throughout this period. The point was usually not too extreme of an angle but rather a rounded shape at the end of the cap.
Cloth hats:
The types of caps I will cover here are cloth caps. These are probably best made from a thicker fulled wool, but may be made from thinner fabric if they are lined and have the proper structure. Ideally, a hat would have a thick wool outer layer to protect from the rain and linen/thin wool lining to provide breathability, but they may be unlined or the outer layer may be made of linen depending on the structure of the hat.
I highly enjoy making small projects like caps and hats from the fabric I have from making other garments. So if you have some extra fabric, try one of these out.
Finished pill box hat.
How to make a pill box hat:
I derived the basic measurements for this hat from Woven Into the Earth and its companion book Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns. These books detail finds from Greenland and reconstruct them. As part of the Reconstructed book, it gives pattern templates and measurement guides. It's a really great book that you should look into if you get a chance.
Anyway, here are the basic measurement guidelines: Take your headband measurement. If your head measurement is 50 cm, then make the radius of the top of the hat 9.00 cm. For every cm greater or smaller, add or remove between 1.5-2 mm.
You have a few options when making this hat. You can make the brim tall enough that you can fold it over. You may also line the brim or if you don't want to line it, you can do what I did and fold the fabric over so when the brim is flipped up, there are no visible seams.
Another option is to do what I did on the second hat by making it shorter. On this hat, there is no lining and the brim is not tall enough to flip it up.
You will also notice that I pieced together three pieces of the yellow wool to sew together to make the brim. I was seriously working from scraps on this one.
When I cut the round blank, I used a compass to make a perfect circle in the diameter I wanted. I then cut that out on paper, and used the paper as a template for cutting the fabric.
To make up the hat, you just need to carefully sew the brim onto the round blank. When the brim meets itself, turn the seam and sew them together.
If you are making a foldable brim, fold the brim up and do an invisible hem stitch high enough that it won't be exposed when you fold up the brim. If the wool is thick enough, an invisible hem stitch won't show through at all on the right side.
If you are lining it, use a similar process for the lining. You need not line the entire hat, and may choose to only line the brim. This is personal choice.
If you are not lining, just finish the seams with a hem and fell stitch and do an overcast stitch at the bottom edge.
I derived the basic measurements for this hat from Woven Into the Earth and its companion book Medieval Garments Reconstructed: Norse Clothing Patterns. These books detail finds from Greenland and reconstruct them. As part of the Reconstructed book, it gives pattern templates and measurement guides. It's a really great book that you should look into if you get a chance.
Anyway, here are the basic measurement guidelines: Take your headband measurement. If your head measurement is 50 cm, then make the radius of the top of the hat 9.00 cm. For every cm greater or smaller, add or remove between 1.5-2 mm.
You have a few options when making this hat. You can make the brim tall enough that you can fold it over. You may also line the brim or if you don't want to line it, you can do what I did and fold the fabric over so when the brim is flipped up, there are no visible seams.
Another option is to do what I did on the second hat by making it shorter. On this hat, there is no lining and the brim is not tall enough to flip it up.
You will also notice that I pieced together three pieces of the yellow wool to sew together to make the brim. I was seriously working from scraps on this one.
When I cut the round blank, I used a compass to make a perfect circle in the diameter I wanted. I then cut that out on paper, and used the paper as a template for cutting the fabric.
To make up the hat, you just need to carefully sew the brim onto the round blank. When the brim meets itself, turn the seam and sew them together.
If you are making a foldable brim, fold the brim up and do an invisible hem stitch high enough that it won't be exposed when you fold up the brim. If the wool is thick enough, an invisible hem stitch won't show through at all on the right side.
If you are lining it, use a similar process for the lining. You need not line the entire hat, and may choose to only line the brim. This is personal choice.
If you are not lining, just finish the seams with a hem and fell stitch and do an overcast stitch at the bottom edge.
The yellow fabric cut and in need of piecing before pinning together. The green fabric pinned and ready to be sewn.
Finished hat with the hem stitched and the side seam finished with a hem and fell. I did not finish the top seams.
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Close up of the green fabric pinned for sewing
The bottom view of the hat.
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Top view of the green fabric pinned for sewing.
Wearing the hat with the brim folded up.
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Worn with the brim rolled. To achieve this, stitch the hem high enough that it can roll without showing.
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Both finished hats for comparison.
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Taciunum Sanitatis of Paris, Albucasis, 51v.
How to make an "acorn" hat:
This acorn hat has many slight variations. The basic idea is that you have the four panels that come together in a point in the middle. Some variations are taller, some allow rolling the brim up, some do not have a rolled brim, some have a little "stem" peak out from the top and some do not. This is really all a matter of personal taste.
For your measurements, measure your head and add 2-3 cm for seam allowance. For seam allowance, if you cut you like I did here, you only have one seam around the forehead to worry about.
This hat is cut in one large panel with the four triangular peaks. You can change the shapes of the peaks to be rounded if you'd like.
To make up the hat, just sew up the one long seam to the point. Next, sew up the remaining peaks to a point. Leave the peak ever so slightly open if you will be adding the stem.
To make the stem, cut a small rectangle of fabric and roll it up. Then overcast stitch along the edge. You can tighten the stitching as you approach the tip and also reduce the thickness of the roll to make the stem thinner at the top. Sew the stem in place into the top of the crown and close it up.
I added a lined brim, but did not line the whole hat. I was almost completely out of the lining fabric and literally had to piece together strips of fabric to get enough for the lining. That said, lining the brim is very easy. Just sew the right sides together, turn the lining and do a top stitch to hold it in place. Then carefully tack the brim lining to the inside of the hat by using an invisible hem stitch. If you have a thick enough wool, the stitching won't be visible at all. If you didn't line the whole hat, finish the seams. Hat done.
This acorn hat has many slight variations. The basic idea is that you have the four panels that come together in a point in the middle. Some variations are taller, some allow rolling the brim up, some do not have a rolled brim, some have a little "stem" peak out from the top and some do not. This is really all a matter of personal taste.
For your measurements, measure your head and add 2-3 cm for seam allowance. For seam allowance, if you cut you like I did here, you only have one seam around the forehead to worry about.
This hat is cut in one large panel with the four triangular peaks. You can change the shapes of the peaks to be rounded if you'd like.
To make up the hat, just sew up the one long seam to the point. Next, sew up the remaining peaks to a point. Leave the peak ever so slightly open if you will be adding the stem.
To make the stem, cut a small rectangle of fabric and roll it up. Then overcast stitch along the edge. You can tighten the stitching as you approach the tip and also reduce the thickness of the roll to make the stem thinner at the top. Sew the stem in place into the top of the crown and close it up.
I added a lined brim, but did not line the whole hat. I was almost completely out of the lining fabric and literally had to piece together strips of fabric to get enough for the lining. That said, lining the brim is very easy. Just sew the right sides together, turn the lining and do a top stitch to hold it in place. Then carefully tack the brim lining to the inside of the hat by using an invisible hem stitch. If you have a thick enough wool, the stitching won't be visible at all. If you didn't line the whole hat, finish the seams. Hat done.
The diamond peak pattern for the hat.
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The hat pinned for sewing.
The finished hat.
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How to make a bag hat:
The bag hat is meant to be very tall for two reasons: one, the height allows it to flop and fold over; two, the height allows it to roll up excessively at the brim. Both of these features show off the excess of the hat.
It is a very simple hat to make. You need to take your head measurement and add about 10cm to that measurement for the rolled brim. The height of the hat should be sufficiently tall to allow it to flop over to the side.
Although this is an extremely simple hat to make, I still made a mockup in sheeting fabric just to get a sense for how tall to make it.
As an example of how to make the most use of every scrap of fabric, I was running out of the yellow wool I used on my pourpoint. So I pieced together multiple segments to make three appropriately sized panels. Ordinarily, you would just make this with two equal panels and sew them up on each side. However, I had so little fabric left I couldn't do that. In the end, it still came out well and the way the hat flops over makes the extra piecing seams barely noticeable.
You do not need to line this hat, and if you do, consider giving a little extra ease in the brim for the lining. I did not line the entire hat, I only lined the brim up to the point it would fold up, and everything beyond that level is unlined. It was basically just to provide a layer of protection between the wool and my forehead.
The bag hat is meant to be very tall for two reasons: one, the height allows it to flop and fold over; two, the height allows it to roll up excessively at the brim. Both of these features show off the excess of the hat.
It is a very simple hat to make. You need to take your head measurement and add about 10cm to that measurement for the rolled brim. The height of the hat should be sufficiently tall to allow it to flop over to the side.
Although this is an extremely simple hat to make, I still made a mockup in sheeting fabric just to get a sense for how tall to make it.
As an example of how to make the most use of every scrap of fabric, I was running out of the yellow wool I used on my pourpoint. So I pieced together multiple segments to make three appropriately sized panels. Ordinarily, you would just make this with two equal panels and sew them up on each side. However, I had so little fabric left I couldn't do that. In the end, it still came out well and the way the hat flops over makes the extra piecing seams barely noticeable.
You do not need to line this hat, and if you do, consider giving a little extra ease in the brim for the lining. I did not line the entire hat, I only lined the brim up to the point it would fold up, and everything beyond that level is unlined. It was basically just to provide a layer of protection between the wool and my forehead.
Because I was using scraps, I made min in three pieces which I sewed up the side. You will probably make yours in two equal halves.
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The finished bag hat with rolled brim.
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Concluding Impressions:
I love making medieval hats of any variety and look forward to having bits of scrap fabric to work magic with and use to the fullest. These hats served that purpose so well. I especially like wearing the acorn hat around the house just because it is so fun.
I love making medieval hats of any variety and look forward to having bits of scrap fabric to work magic with and use to the fullest. These hats served that purpose so well. I especially like wearing the acorn hat around the house just because it is so fun.
How to Make a Peaked cap:
This type of hat has a variety of forms. Sometimes the peak is short enough that the peak stands straight up. It's hard to tell, but some illuminations seem to be a felted, stiff wool like that used for a bycocket hat. However, other hats could conceivably be made from fabric cloth.
Other versions of the peaked hat have tall enough peaks that the got folds over slightly. In effect, it is a smaller version of a bagged hat. These are certainly made from fabric cloth.
Take a look at illustrations to see what you want to make. These hats can be made from scrap fabric and have so much variation that you can make adjustments as your tastes and needs demand.
This type of hat has a variety of forms. Sometimes the peak is short enough that the peak stands straight up. It's hard to tell, but some illuminations seem to be a felted, stiff wool like that used for a bycocket hat. However, other hats could conceivably be made from fabric cloth.
Other versions of the peaked hat have tall enough peaks that the got folds over slightly. In effect, it is a smaller version of a bagged hat. These are certainly made from fabric cloth.
Take a look at illustrations to see what you want to make. These hats can be made from scrap fabric and have so much variation that you can make adjustments as your tastes and needs demand.
Taciunum Sanitatis of Paris, 26v.
A peaked hat with a small fold and a rolled brim.
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Taciunum Sanitatis of Paris, 97v.
A bag hat with more pronounced folded peak and brim,
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Taciunum Sanitatis of Paris, 110v.
A taller peak, but with slight fold and brim.
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I was almost completely out of fabric for this hat. I literally struggled to find eight pieces of fabric of the appropriate size to cobble together.
But find them I did, and I pieced eight pieces together to make a paneled hat with a peak. Piecing the fabric was tedious, but the end result does not look like I had to cobble the hat out of remnants, so I'm happy with it.
You can also experiment with different shapes with an old bed sheet to get an idea of how the hat will fit, but be mindful that if you use a thicker wool like I did here, it will lay much differently than the sheeting fabric.
But find them I did, and I pieced eight pieces together to make a paneled hat with a peak. Piecing the fabric was tedious, but the end result does not look like I had to cobble the hat out of remnants, so I'm happy with it.
You can also experiment with different shapes with an old bed sheet to get an idea of how the hat will fit, but be mindful that if you use a thicker wool like I did here, it will lay much differently than the sheeting fabric.
The panels ready to be pieced together.
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Piecing the panels together.
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I pieced four panels to each other to make two halves as shown in the picture above. If you have enough fabric, just cut it out in two pieces to start.
Once you have two equal pieces, just stitch them together. After this, press the seams flat so it will lay nicely.
For this hat, I did not make a foldable brim. Instead, I decided to take a strip of fabric and roll it over the edge of the hat to make a band. I used an iron to press the band into an even and consistent roll and pinned it around the hat.
Then I top stitched it in place using a prick stitch, which is only minimally visible from the right side of the fabric.
One final thing I did with the hat was tack the peak down to one side. I wanted it to stay in place and not flop around, so i ran a couple stitches in to keep it secure. This is obviously completely optional.
Once you have two equal pieces, just stitch them together. After this, press the seams flat so it will lay nicely.
For this hat, I did not make a foldable brim. Instead, I decided to take a strip of fabric and roll it over the edge of the hat to make a band. I used an iron to press the band into an even and consistent roll and pinned it around the hat.
Then I top stitched it in place using a prick stitch, which is only minimally visible from the right side of the fabric.
One final thing I did with the hat was tack the peak down to one side. I wanted it to stay in place and not flop around, so i ran a couple stitches in to keep it secure. This is obviously completely optional.
the two halves sewn together and the band ready to be pinned in place. The folded over edge will go on the outside for a finished look.
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The band pinned in place.
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The inside of the band with the top stitching.
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the outer top stitching. I used a prick stitch so the top stitching would only be minimally visible.
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Concluding Impressions:
I am continually amazed at how many hats you can make from scraps of fabric. This hat is a cool looking peak hat and will go nicely with my robust collection of hats. My biggest problem is finding a reason to wear all of these hats.
I am continually amazed at how many hats you can make from scraps of fabric. This hat is a cool looking peak hat and will go nicely with my robust collection of hats. My biggest problem is finding a reason to wear all of these hats.
